Out and about …

… in deepest Northumberland.  Another series of monos from recent walks and motorcycle journeys. The first set is from Colt Crag Reservoir – from Wiki – The reservoir was built at the end of the 19th century for the Newcastle and Gateshead Water Company. The reservoir forms part of a series of reservoirs along the A68 which are connected by tunnels and aqueducts from Catcleugh Reservoir to Whittle Dene from where drinking water is supplied to Newcastle upon Tyne, Gateshead, and some surrounding areas.

In the image of the Boat House the bird in flight is a house martin – again from Wiki – One of Colt Crag’s main attractions are the great crested grebes, and there is also a colony of 20-30 pairs of house martins that return each year to nest under the eaves of the boathouse.

Three small figures in a landscape

The Boat House

The Dam

 

The second set is from Bewcastle, a place I last visited in March 2018.  On that occasion I was riding a Yamaha MT-09 Tracer.  This time I was on a BMW 1250 GS and there has been an F850 GS in between.  Do I possibly have a problem 😉

Bewcastle Cross

St Cuthbert’s Church

The Cross

Given the proximity of the ‘b’ and the ‘n’ on the QWERTY keyboard, this place could be easily dismissed as a typo.  Approaching from the east via Gilsland and West Hall, Bewcastle seems impractically distant from anywhere.  In the words of Peter Davidson, it feels like the last of England.  The sheep and cattle roam free under the Border’s wide skies, at a point where Northumberland, Cumbria and southernmost Scotland meet.  Davidson compares its remoteness with that of Norway’s northernmost Sami territory, Finnmark.  It was probably this, more than anything, that determined I must go.

And yet, for all its remoteness, there is obvious evidence that, at various times in ancient history, this place possessed significance.  There is the corvid haunted castle, the church which stands on the same land once occupied by a Roman fort and, within the graveyard, the Bewcastle Cross,  the finest Anglican Cross in Europe. Dating from the 7th century, it is dedicated to Alcfrith, son of Oswiu, King of Northumberland who ruled from 641 – 670 ADwww.bewcastle.com.

Bewcastle Cross, St Cuthbert’s Church

St Cuthbert’s Church

Peter Davidson again – The Idea of North – Topographies , Britain:  The point of the Bewcastle Cross within any idea of the English north is the absolute, internationalist sophistication of its iconography and execution: the vine scrolls are eastern Mediterranean in inspiration; the panel of Christ is derived, via Ireland, from Coptic sources. This is as sophisticated an artefact as the England of the late seventh century was capable of producing: it has details consonant with the sculpture of contemporary Rome.  It forces a reconsideration of the whole question of centre and periphery, standing as it now does in a hamlet at the very edge of England where to go further north you would have to walk to reach Scotland.  By drove roads, moss-troopers’ tracks, memorised secret paths to the frontier.

Rome, 1141 miles

The road to New House

Between Park Farm and The Wilderness

The ford at Rawney

These last images are from a four mile, circular walk that heads north from Bewcastle towards New House, west to Park Farm, south to Lyne Bank Bridge and east, back to Bewcastle.  Examine the OS map and the entire area is criss-crossed by footpaths, bridle paths and farm tracks – the memorised secret paths to the frontier.

We will return – not least because Bryony and Joy at the relatively nearby Scypen were so welcoming, late on a March Sunday afternoon.

OS Map view of walk